SDC Weekly 86; Morgan Stanley/LuxeConsult 2025 Report; Engraved Enamel
Bennahmias’ Final Act at AP, The East is Rising, WristCheck Under Retail, Ferrari’s Domination, Acquired Rolex Episode, Amazon Takes Control of 007 so is James Bond's watch placement up for grabs?
Let’s start with what I think is the quote of the week:
“… [this is] the alternate reality version of what the Calatrava could be today if Patek Philippe weren’t led by a bumbling fool.”
Find out who said this in the bonus link section below 😂
Estimated reading time: ~29 mins, but it’s quite data-heavy so might take a bit longer if you read and digest all the charts.
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Bennahmias’ Final Act at AP
You’re going to love this. Last year’s launch of AP’s most complicated watch ever - the Code 11.59 Universelle RD4 - turns out to have been François-Henry Bennahmias’ final ‘fvck you’ before departing as CEO. According to my sources, this (objectively speaking) ultra-complicated ‘marvel’ of a watch was actually meant to be kept under wraps until AP’s 150th anniversary this year. Instead, Bennahmias couldn’t resist stealing the thunder from his successor’s era, and ensured he would take the credit for that ‘milestone’ release!
And yes, this left AP somewhat hamstrung for their actual anniversary year, which is why that video with the new CEO (linked above) where they are thinking of ideas for 2025’s celebration, was probably not too far from the truth! The RD4, with its 23 complications and 40 functions, would probably have been the perfect centrepiece for AP’s milestone celebration. Instead, FHB left them scrambling to make the RD5 seem exciting; from what I hear, it will be a chronograph + tourbillon in a 39mm Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ case.
Speaking of what’s coming, AP apparently plans to launch new two new Royal Oaks in both 38mm and 41mm, including a perpetual calendar that can be set entirely via the crown. If this sounds familiar, you might have caught Ben Clymer’s recent Instagram post about his ‘watch pet peeves’, where he specifically called out pushers to set perpetual calendars as being annoying. Coincidence? I doubt it. I can’t wait for his inevitable “they actually listened!” follow-up post; it is probably already drafted and waiting 😂