A Watch Collector's Ramblings
Observations, Missteps, and Musings
Far be it from me to offer advice, but after spending a considerable amount of my time obsessing over mechanical objects, and alongside others who do the same, I’ve put down some points below which may or may not resonate with other watch enthusiasts.
These are in no partiuclar order, and are best described as random thoughts from one collector to another – often tongue in cheek, but I’ll let you determine that for yourself.
One request: if you enjoy reading this, please tap the ❤ before you leave, and if you’ve got any of your own to add, please do so in the comments below.
The joy of collecting often matters more than the watches themselves.
Who you share your passion with will impact your enjoyment of the hobby more than the specific watches you have in your collection.
After buying their first ‘nice’ watch, many new collectors immediately start planning their next purchase. My theory is that this is the hobby working as designed; Collectors do this out of an instinctual desire to experience the thrill of the hunt.
There is a group of collectors who believe there is not much point in having a diverse collection unless you actually wear your watches – this is not the only belief group, but it’s the most enlightened one 🤪
Some people have a weird anxiety about being a “true collector” or not – “I’m a horology enthusiast, not a collector” or whatever other shite you hear. Don’t be that way.
Watch brands vary in lots of arbitrary ways - how they market their products, how they manage waitlists, how they price their pieces, how they engage with the community, etc. It’s good to be aware of these both as a consumer (not getting ripped off) and as an enthusiast (understanding the industry dynamics).
Different watch communities have different “rules” – Whether boxes and papers matter, when it’s acceptable to modify a watch or whether that makes it a frankenwatch, or if is acceptable (or encouraged) to wear a dive watch with a suit, or a leather strap on a dive watch. After seeing all these variations and silos in the various communities, it’s hard not to see them as silly. Life is short, just wear what you love.
When there’s a knowledge barrier, non-verbal information (the watches you wear, how you talk about them, perhaps even your Instagram feed) plays an increased role in others’ judgments of you in the watch community. Whether you accept this or not.
Consider learning basic watch terminology and do some homework on key history to enhance your conversations with other enthusiasts.
Watches often look different in person than in photos or videos. If possible, try to experience a piece personally, on your own wrist, before buying it.
An authorised dealer in some small town will likely pursue a make customers happy strategy and value long-term relationships. A boutique on Regent Street in London or similar, will probably use a cater to super-rich people strategy. No matter how interested you are, they know most people will never buy a six-figure watch and won’t ‘waste resources’ making them happy. It isn’t their fault. Don’t hate the player, hate the game.
A watch that looks unappealing in photos but has lots of genuine (non-influencer) enthusiasts praising it is probably good under some criteria (movement, finishing, heritage, comfort).
The quality difference between watches can be vast, even within the same price range. Personal preferences often play a bigger role in satisfaction than objective quality measures. Don’t fall into the trap of trying to ‘justify’ a price based on objective measures. Watches are primarily emotional purchases.
That said, when looking at reviews, or evaluating watches, consider (1) multiple sources (2) the motives of each source (3) the experience level of the source, and (4) if one review or source is truly influencing you – check out their history to calibrate for how reliable they might be to you.
The thrill of acquisition gets old surprisingly quickly. This is backed by research, and anyone who denies it is a liar.
Despite being only a tiny fraction of the world’s population, Rolex owners seem to make up 90% of watch enthusiasts everywhere on the planet. Do not be disturbed by this well-known optical illusion.
Don’t be bullied. If you walk into a boutique and an employee immediately starts pushing you into buying something to build purchase history and ‘unlock’ hot watches, you should feel zero obligation to show interest. They know exactly what they’re doing.
If you like vintage watches, learn to service them yourself or find a trustworthy watchmaker, as well as a reputable dealer who will give you sound advice.
At watch meetups, there are often pieces that make it into every conversation and become the centre of attention while there are almost equally interesting watches nearby that are nearly ignored.
Constant use in humid conditions will ruin leather straps unless they are lined with rubber (and eventually, even the lining won’t help). Most people don’t consider this and have no idea how to properly care for their straps – and then waste untold sums on straps!
The human wrist swells throughout the day. So, if you’re about to size a bracelet, maybe don’t do it first thing in the morning, or after a workout and a hot shower.
Get some dehumidifier pouches and put a few in your watch box, watch safe, and safety deposit boxes to control humidity.
Collecting watches can make you more aware of time passing. You might find yourself noticing the position of the hands more often or appreciating the slow sweep of a mechanical second hand. Ironically, this heightened awareness of time can make you feel like you’re experiencing more of it, even as the years seem to fly by.
A fantastic upside of watch collecting is the perspective it gives on “regular” life. Why do I decide to wear what I wear? Should I focus on one brand instead of whatever new piece recently caught my eye? If you had to name another hobby which spurs these reflections, what is it?
Long periods of wearing shitters are amazing for helping you appreciate the wonders of high-end mechanical movements and hand-finished details - this appreciation is not totally impossible without deprivation, but the appreciation is definitely amplified.
If in doubt, assume people would rather hear less about your watch collection. People love talking about themselves, and their stuff. Let them. It makes you more likeable too.
That said, watches both of you have owned (or still own), are top five on the list of reliable conversation topics. (Number one on said list: next purchase or target)
Non-watch people have much more interesting perspectives on watches than fellow collectors, especially if you’re in the same collecting circles and same socio-economic levels.
You can’t beat watch addiction - you can only really adjust your spending habits over time. I prioritise being financially responsible, that’s all. Peace is found when you learn to appreciate what you have instead of always chasing the next piece.
You will always be better off avoiding impulse buying. Just don’t do it.
The watch market is unpredictable. What goes up must come down. In the end, force yourself to remember, your watches are not stock options.
Auction results are like horoscopes for watch nerds. They may be amusing to read, but don’t base your life decisions on them. That said, if you see a bargain, pull the trigger.
The watch industry loves to move upmarket. Don’t feel pressured to keep up – there’s always value to be found if you know where to look. And if you don’t, well, that’s what collector groups are for.
The quality of relationships with authorised dealers are inversely proportional to the market sentiment. When the market is booming, you won’t hear from them. When times are tough, they will be grovelling at everyone’s feet. In general, I revert to Maya Angelou’s famous words: “I've learned that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel.” Basically, don’t be a cvnt. Ever.
Keep some powder dry for when the market dips. While others are panic selling, you will be a kid in a candy store. Remember to control yourself, and don’t go around boasting about what a genius you are!
Many of the people who seem “experienced” at watch collecting seem to be really good at appreciating details – both in the watches, and in themselves. They are finely tuned in to their own decision-making processes, their triggers, their pet peeves, their motives and their internal dialogues about buying options and purchase decisions. They know exactly why they are doing something, and do not lie to themselves.
Don’t confuse rarity with value. Every day, humans produce one or more ‘piece unique’ turds – they are obviously worthless. 80% of auction listings, in my mind, seem to use the word ‘rare’ – whenever you hear this word, raise an alarm in your mind, and be vigilant about the lies about to come your way.
Watch collecting reveals the value of: simplicity, versatility, durability, craftsmanship, and if you have the right mindset... appreciating what you already have.
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Years ago, I found myself in the default / establishment local Atlanta haberdasher evaluating the merits of a pair of captoe dress shoes from either Allen Edmonds (widely available) or Alden (much smaller distribution). I was just out of college and looking to purchase a pair of durable, “adult” shoes for my first banking job. The Aldens were considerably more expensive, but obviously worth the delta after examining both in person.
The salesman “helping” me was very condescending and said “young man, that’s a VERY expensive pair of shoes” (they were probably ~$500 at the time - 13 years ago). I bought the Aldens, and I never forgot that dissatisfying encounter.
Audemars Piguet opened an Atlanta boutique in collaboration with Watches of Switzerland in August of 2019; the store was a few doors down from that same menswear store. My career had taken me to Chicago during the interim, but I found myself back “home” in Atlanta over Thanksgiving. I was killing time over that weekend and strolled into the new AP boutique.
The boutique is small, and even before COVID there was very little inventory. I recognized the gentleman behind the counter immediately - it was the same salesman! I was the only prospective customer in the store, but he was preoccupied with staring at the floor, or the ceiling, or out the window until I cleared my throat and adjusted the cuff of my sweater to reveal the 15202 on my wrist.
Suddenly he wanted to engage me in conversation! Would I like to try on a CODE 11:59? Had I considered adding a Royal Oak Offshore - perhaps a Ghost?
I wasn’t particularly interested in either, but - as I said - I was killing time. Surprisingly, I found that I really liked the Ghost. In my experience, APs are sculptural, three dimensional objects that really need to be experienced on your wrist to develop appreciation for their form.
I liked the Ghost so much that I bought one a little later! But not from him.
Very good points and I can identify with many of them. No matter the level of acquisition, the thrill always wears off and the hunt is the sweet spot for many collectors. Time spent researching, evaluating options, ruminating and agonizing over the next acquisition and possible departure from the collection requires quite the emotional and financial investment often.