SDC Weekly 59; GPHG 2024 Nominees; Philosophy Wisdom
Clymer Speaks, Tiffany Woes, Gen-Z Consumer Trends, Swiss Watch Industry June Update, More Rolex Patents, Zero Tax Map, History of UBI, Vape Phones, Norwegian Parenting, Rideshare Mafia and more.
🚨 Welcome to another edition of SDC Weekly. Estimated reading time: ~30 mins
This week, aside from the headline items, we cover the latest Swiss watch industry report, revealing a challenging landscape for Swiss luxury watches. We’ll also explore how Gen-Z is reshaping consumer trends and examine the potential impact on the watch market. There’s also a sneak peek into Tiffany’s woes, as well as a hail mary from Ben Clymer served alongside new Rolex patents and the rise of Japanese watch collecting culture to name a few.
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Small stuff
Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry - June Update
You may have already seen coverage of this elsewhere, as it was published last Thursday - but for the sake of completeness, we will cover it anyway. The Swiss watch industry has hit a bit of a rough patch, and it’s not just because they’ve run out of fondue. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry’s latest report for June 2024 paints a pretty gloomy picture, and
’s article last week added some colour too.First off, the headline figures are grim. Swiss watch exports tumbled 7.2% year-on-year to 2.3 billion Swiss francs. That’s a drop of 300,000 watches in a single month.
The real kicker here, is… *drumroll please* … China 😂. As Bloomberg reports, “Shipments dropped 7.2% by value to 2.3 billion Swiss francs ($2.6 billion), or by 300,000 watches, in June from a year earlier... driven by a 36.5% slump in exports to China, the second-biggest market behind the US, and a 23% fall in shipments to Hong Kong.” As my Gypsy friends would say: “Fooook!”
This isn’t just a flash in the pan either. We’ve been saying this for months, and by now it isn’t news that in the first half of 2024, Swiss watch exports are down (3.3% to be precise) compared to the same period last year.
Why is this happening? Well, it’s a perfect storm of factors. Bloomberg points out that “Demand for pricey timepieces has waned after a spike when Covid lockdowns ended. Premium watch buyers have reined in spending amid higher interest rates, shaky economic growth and geopolitical conflicts.” Add to that the strength of the Swiss franc, which is about as welcome as a vegetarian in a steakhouse, and you’ve got a recipe for declining sales.
The pain isn’t evenly distributed though. The report shows watches priced over 3,000 francs (export price) are holding their ground, barely dipping by 0.5%. It’s the mid-range segment (500-3,000 francs) that’s taking a bath, accounting for over 80% of the total decline. This suggests the uber-wealthy are still happily strapping on their Pateks like my boy Cliff loves to do, while the aspirational luxury buyer is feeling the pinch.
Interestingly, not all markets are singing the blues. The US and Japan (due to a weak Yen) are the plucky underdogs in this story, with exports rising 6.5% and 13.2% respectively. As Bloomberg notes, these were the “lone bright spots in June.” It seems the Land of the Free and the Land of the Rising Sun are keeping the Swiss watchmaking dream alive.
So, what does all this mean for the industry? Bloomberg reports “Richemont reported a 27% decline in Greater China sales in the three months through June, dragging down overall sales of its watch brands... by 13%. Swatch Group AG... said on Monday China sales plunged 30% in the first half of the year.”
These aren’t just numbers on a spreadsheet; they represent what appears to be a significant shift in the luxury watch market. The industry has been riding the Chinese dragon for years, and now that dragon seems to be taking a nap. The question is, can they pivot fast enough to other markets to make up the shortfall? And indeed, are the other markets actually able to pick up the slack?
Just yesterday, this article from WatchPro suggests this is not an existential crisis and a turnaround is possibly underway in Europe and America. I’m not convinced yet.
Here’s the report if you’re interested:
Consumer Trends 2024: Gen-Z Shaping the Future
This report paints a fascinating picture of the American consumer landscape in mid-2024, and while it doesn’t focus specifically on luxury watches, there are plenty of insights we would do well to heed.
First off, the macroeconomic backdrop: inflation has decelerated to 3% while unemployment remains low at 4.1%. However, and this is crucial, 40% of Americans still cite rising prices as their most pressing concern. There’s basically a disconnect here which Felix Salmon of Axios neatly summarises: “The meaning of the word 'inflation' has changed. It used to mean rising prices; now it means high prices.” This sentiment could well impact discretionary spending on luxury items such as high-end watches.
Interestingly, consumer life satisfaction is at its highest since measurements began. This could bode well for luxury markets, as consumers feeling good about their lives are perhaps more likely to indulge in silly purchases like watches.
A few specifics:
The Beauty Industry Revolution: Younger brands, particularly those targeting Gen Z and Millennials, are driving growth in the beauty sector. These brands are digital-first, often focus on specific niches, and value authenticity. There’s a lesson here for traditional watchmakers regarding the importance of digital engagement and niche appeal - it cannot be overstated!
The GLP-1 Phenomenon: The rise of GLP-1 drugs1 for weight loss is a trend that could have far-reaching implications for consumer behaviour. While it might not directly impact watch sales, it is actually altering how people think about luxury and self-indulgence. GLP-1 users report ‘trading up’ in their purchases, including clothing and dining out. This could potentially extend to other luxury goods, including watches. ‘New you, new watch’ as it were. 😉
Shifting Substance Preferences: Americans are smoking and drinking less, with cannabis gaining a more positive perception than alcohol or nicotine. This shift in societal norms and values could influence how luxury brands, including watchmakers, position themselves and their products - and perhaps also impact how they approach marketing campaigns and so on.
The YouTube Phenomenon: Perhaps the most exciting section of the report for our purposes is the deep dive into YouTube’s dominance. It isn’t just about cat videos anymore. YouTube has become the most-watched streaming service in the US, surpassing even Netflix. More importantly, it’s driving discovery and action:
You don’t need me to explain why luxury watch brands should care about this. 26% of YouTube users report discovering a new brand through the platform, and 35% have made a purchase based on a YouTube video. That’s a massive opportunity for savvy marketers in the luxury watch space.
Moreover, the rise of YouTube celebrities like MrBeast (who’s apparently more recognisable to Gen Z than ‘Seinfeld’) presents new avenues for brand partnerships and influencer marketing. The report suggests younger viewers would be more excited to see their favourite YouTube creator than a Hollywood star! For luxury watch brands looking to connect with younger demographics, this insight is gold.
The report doesn’t explicitly focus on the luxury watch market, but it provides valuable context for understanding the evolving consumer landscape. The key takeaways for me:
Despite economic pressures, consumers are showing resilience and even increased life satisfaction, which could support luxury purchases.
Digital-first, niche-focused brands are winning in other sectors - there’s an opportunity here for innovative watch brands.
The rise of YouTube as a dominant platform for discovery and influence cannot be ignored. Luxury watch brands need a robust YouTube strategy.
Changing societal norms around substances and self-care (e.g., GLP-1 drugs) may shift how consumers view themselves, and in turn, how they engage with luxury products.
The findings from the Consumer Trends 2024 report align remarkably well with the insights gleaned from the Watchfinder & Co study on Generation Z’s engagement with luxury watches - you can read more about it here, as I have been unable to obtain a copy of this report yet.
ScrewDownCrown is a reader-supported guide to the world of watch collecting, behavioural psychology, & other first world problems.
Benjamin Speaks!
This message from Ben Clymer, the founder of Hodinkee, essentially announces a significant shift in the company’s direction, returning to its roots as a content-focused watch blog, and basically wrap up their watch sales over time (i.e. stop adding new pre-owned watches to both Hodinkee and Crown & Caliber, and cease adding new models to their modern watch business). The real-life implications:
“I'd like to say that our focus never wavered from delivering the best content, first and foremost – but the truth is, things did change. And the last few years have been challenging because of it. I'll spare you the details (only because I know everyone else already has not spared us from anything at all), but suffice it to say, we've learned a lot. And now it's time to get back to basics.”
Pretty funny paragraph. One reaction to this quote on a group chat was: “I havent learned how to not sound victimised.” 😂
Hodinkee plans to invest in and evolve their editorial content. This includes growing the editorial team and potentially bringing back some familiar names from the past.
- are you going back?While scaling back on watch sales, Hodinkee will continue with their limited edition watch collaborations and their digital-first insurance program. Ben doesn’t rule out selling watches again in the future. He hints at upcoming live, in-person events in the New York City area, suggesting a renewed focus on community building and direct engagement with their audience.
The tone of the message is about as humble as I’d imagine someone in Ben’s position can manage. He basically grew a blog into a $100m business, personally made money (despite investors perhaps losing some), leveraged his position of influence to land some of the hottest watches on the planet (RRCC2 Diamond, Daytona Le Mans etc), heck, he even got a new wife out of that business. He’s in a great place. Now. if he needs to show a tiny bit of humility, what’s the big deal?
He will be back peddling $6000 travel clocks in no time, because he knows how to play people like fiddles. Power to him; I respect the hustle.
Tiffany’s Woes
Now we shall dive into this glittering mess of a situation at Tiffany’s. It’s a tale as old as time; Big conglomerate swallows beloved brand, promises the moon, and then struggles to deliver! LVMH forked out $16 billion for Tiffany & Co., but three years on, it seems they’ve bitten off more than they can chew.
“I’m very confident about Tiffany, but it takes time”
Bernard Arnault
Bernard Arnault preaches patience while his son Alexandre frantically tries to polish this tarnished jewel. With five Arnault offspring vying for daddy’s crown, the stakes are pretty high. Meanwhile, Tiffany’s staff are heading for the exits faster than watch geeks are abandoning Hodinkee.
The flagship store on Fifth Avenue, once the jewel in Tiffany’s crown, is now a monument to overambition. Imagine setting a $60 million sales target for December 2023 - double the previous year’s figure! It’s the kind of hubris that would make even the most cocaine-addled Wall Street trader blush.
“Before LVMH bought Tiffany, sales targets usually increased between 5% to 10% each year, some of the people familiar with the matter said. A 100% increase seemed untenable, they said.”
Bloomberg
It gets worse! Three-quarters of the sales staff at the flagship have scarpered in the past year, taking their Rolodexes of wealthy clients with them.
LVMH’s response? Shuffle in some greenhorns from their other brands and hire folks who wouldn’t know a diamond from a doorknob. Because nothing says “luxury jeweller” quite like a salesperson who thinks a tennis bracelet is something you wear to Wimbledon2.
To be fair, it’s not all doom and gloom. Tiffany’s trying to class up the joint with more high-end events and a training programme ominously titled “The Culture of Elevation.” One can almost hear the ghost of Truman Capote chuckling into his martini.
The irony, of course, is while Tiffany’s struggles to elevate its brand, its competitors are soaring. Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, those darlings of the truly loaded, are laughing all the way to the bank.
I suppose we can’t write off Tiffany just yet. After all, this is the brand that turned a simple blue box into a universal symbol of luxury. If they can pull that off, surely they can weather this storm. Or perhaps not. In the fickle world of luxury retail, yesterday’s icon can quickly become tomorrow’s clearance sale.
Pass the popcorn, darling, and make sure it's covered in gold leaf.
Enough small talk… Let’s dig in.
🎉 GPHG 2024 Nominations
To quote
from this post last week:Most of the brands on this list are there because they could really do with the good press of a win, or even a nomination. Hardly any of them are there because they made one of the best watches of the year, and that’s the brutal truth.
I’ve said it many times, but the GPHG is basically just “affordable marketing for watch brands,” with an option to get bonus marketing mileage if nominated, and absolutely huge coverage for the winners. Even if a brand isn’t nominated, unknown brands will have paid 800 Francs to show up on this list which is viewed by many people who may otherwise never even have heard of their brand. Winning a GPHG Award for any category doesn’t say anything about the quality of a watch, evidenced by the absence of so many exceptional watches from the competition - watches which would otherwise blow ‘the winner’ away.
Take this, for example:
“Presenting the Titan Edge Squircle, a timepiece that redefines geometry by combining distinct fundamental shapes of a square and a circle into a new Squircle form.”
You can’t make this sh*t up 😂 Nobody reading this would have ever heard of, or seen this watch. But here it is. Now you know. With that preamble out of the way, I don’t control the GPHG - it’s here to stay, warts and all.
So instead, let’s play a guessing game - which 6 watches from the full list will be shortlisted in each category? Here’s what I think should be nominated - this is not a prediction, that’s a different game altogether, probably LVMH-heavy and including a lot of the stuff you’ve seen on social media.
Listed below are the GPHG categories, and their own definition in italics. Then my 6 picks, followed by some commentary if applicable.
Ladies
Feminine watches comprising the following indications only – hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases – and that may potentially be adorned with a maximum 9-carat gemsetting.
I went with what I thought were the most attractive feminine watches, with bonus points for the display being more intricate. The Vieren was a female founder too, so the helped. Van Cleef & Arpels was a close runner up.
Ladies’ Complication
Feminine watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications and do not fit the definition of the Ladies’ and Mechanical Exception categories.
This was a tough one, only because I would probably only have nominated 5, excluding the Vanguart - however, gun to head, it looks like a Greubel Forsey so it got the final nod.
Time Only
Watches with two or three hands and no gemsetting, bearing exclusively analogue time indications: hours, minutes, seconds.
This was incredibly tight. Martinez is a talented artist, and I am African, so a lion watch is an auto-pick for me. Ming made the lightest watch ever, and despite the memes about it looking like an a**hole, it is pretty cool.
Honourable mentions must go to Berneron for trying something new (I just don’t like it aesthetically), Garrick (I think the design is flawed with that wheel sticking out form the centre), Shapiro (Overpriced), and Kudoke (Nice, just not nicer than the top 6). In reality, Berneron will likely get the nod over Martinez.
Men’s
Masculine watches comprising the following indications only – hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve indication, classic moon phases – and that may potentially feature a digital/retrograde display or be adorned with a maximum 9-carat gemsetting.
Supposedly ‘the main event’ of the GPHG - the pickings were slim! The Kallinich Claeys Einser “Founders Edition” looks insane. Click on that link and check out the rear end of that watch. To think it’s priced at only 23,800 CHF?! Wow. Doubt it stands a chance of winning, but it looks pretty special.
What’s funny about this selection, is something I imagine many watch-media people have to contend with. I have written about Fleming Watches before, and the founder as well as the COO are both friends of mine. So here I was, debating how it would look if I selected Fleming. Then I found myself trying to be super objective about whether I think it is in my ‘top 6’ or not. Bear in mind, this isn’t even a real vote or nomination, but me NOT choosing my friends’ watch might offend them, even if they never speak of it. I don’t even know whether they read this, but if they did, I could spare them the hard feelings by just selecting their watch. In the end, it didn’t matter, because there was no close alternative after I picked 6 - but I share this here, merely to offer a look into the psychology of it all, even when there are no stakes to speak of. Now imagine what it is like when the stakes are higher!
Men’s Complication
Masculine watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications and do not fit the definition of the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories.
It was at this moment I regretted undertaking this section for SDC. Aside from maybe 2 watches, this category is filled with nonsense. Complete and utter garbage. I picked 6 because that’s the game. Let’s move on.
Iconic
Watches stemming from an emblematic collection or model that has been exercising a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 20 years or offering a contemporary reinterpretation.
This section made me nauseous, because the idea that any of these have “been exercising a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 20 years” is comedic - so they serve only as contemporary reinterpretations.
Tourbillon
Mechanical watches comprising at least one tourbillon. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
A Batman-themed tourbillion for 6,200 CHF? That’s pretty cool. Also nearly picked the Moser over Daniel Roth, but because I picked a Moser already, I decided to spread the votes. Once again, it is funny how the psychology plays out. I must add, at this point I really regret this exercise - other than it being meaningless, I am not sure this is of value to you, the reader - and for that, I apologise - but I can’t start something and leave it unfinished. So please, bear with me.
Calendar and Astronomy
Mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication (e.g. date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases display, etc.). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
This section was easy, because they put the worst ones at the bottom, making it straightforward to get the image of the top 6 😂 Easy winner for me is the IWC. Apparently the PF Hijri Calendar doesn’t work properly, but nobody buys them anyway.
Mechanical Exception
Watches featuring a special mechanism, such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a striking or any other acoustic function, a special escapement, a belt-driven movement or comprising another original and/or exceptional horological concept.
The Freak squeezed out the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC because they had a nominee in the Men’s category above. I still think thinness as a complication is vastly under appreciated and ought to be celebrated by more collectors. I suppose the prohibitive pricing doesn’t help. That Behrens Kung-Fu (Chinese brand) really piqued my interest - it has a piston-like feature which moves the power reserve up and down - the idea of watch hands moving in more than one dimension is really cool, and I don’t recall seeing this before.
Chronograph
Mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
Weird category, with an honourable mention for the Louis Moinet which has a stunning-looking movement - I just feel the oversized pushers make it look cheap and ruin the aesthetic. I regret the inclusion of a Massena watch, but hey, I am trying to be fair and objective, and he didn’t make it himself so it gets a pass!
Sports
Watches linked to the world of sport, whose functions, materials and design are suited to physical exercise.
Possibly the most uninteresting selection of watches in any single category.
Jewellery
Watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of the art of jewellery and gemsetting, and also distinguished by the choice of stones.
There were only 6 watches in this category, so there was no selection required. That said, I do love the Dior piece, just based on how it looks. Also, I know nothing about bejewelled watches, so I will return to my box.
Artistic Crafts
Watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enamelling, lacquering, engraving, guilloché (engine-turning), skeleton-working, etc.
That Pirro piece is particularly cool when viewed from the side3, and honestly, this is possibly the most subjective category of all. I might have substituted the Andersen piece for something more ornate, but I actually love the black/rose combination a lot!
“Petite Aiguille”
Watches with a retail price between CHF 3,000 and CHF 10,000. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.
I have a feeling, everyone and their dog will be picking the Toledano & Chan B/1, and I might go as far as predicting a win for that watch. It also pains me to put Furlan Marri in here, but it’s a perpetual calendar for under 10k CHF; cant argue with that. I feel this category can end up being a springboard for future price increases and ‘hype’ around a brand, but I don’t make the rules - I’ll await your alternatives in the comments below. Tudor often wins this one, but I’d say there are better alternatives this year.
Challenge
Watches with a retail price equal to or under CHF 3,000. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.
This was a busy category filled with sh*tters, so an exercise which involves choosing the least bad options was never going to be easy. Honourable mention for Studio Underdog, courtesy of an Arab friend! I also might have nominated the Anoma triangle watch if I liked that design, but I chose an unknown brand (Zbioland) instead, because I like the chain element in the middle. I am a proud owner of the Kollokium watch pictured here, and I really thing it is a no-brainer for the win, however, I suspect it will be a tight race between that watch, and the Anoma I didn’t pick at all. Perhaps that says something about my objectivity, but I stuck with the choice to reiterate the psychology of it all.
Conclusion
Upon reflection, this was a worthwhile exercise for me, because it put this whole competition into perspective, and I discovered the Chinses brand Behrens, which I would like to learn more about, and experience in person. There is no way of determining which watches will be entered into the GPHG, and ultimately the judges are left with the unenviable task of picking the best watches, even when the available options are all bad! If you have the time, visit the GPHG website here, and see for yourself - what would you nominate in each category?
I’d love to hear which choices differ from mine, and why. I also sincerely hope this wasn’t a complete waste of your time - if it was, please say so, and I will avoid doing it again; Lord knows I didn’t enjoy doing it 😂
💡 Philosophy Wisdom for Watch Collectors
Let’s face it: we’re a peculiar bunch. By ‘we’ I mean watch collectors. We obsess over tiny mechanical objects that, in the grand scheme of things, are about as necessary as a sundial in a dark cave. Yet, here we are, dropping house money on wrist-bound time machines. Why? Because we’re not just collecting watches; we’re collecting moments, stories, and yes, a bit of philosophy.
Kierkegaard’s Existential Crisis
Søren Kierkegaard, the Danish philosopher who probably would’ve worn a skeleton watch (you know, to stare into the abyss of his own existence), once wrote:
“One sticks a finger into the ground to smell what country one is in; I stick my finger into the world — it has no smell. Where am I? What does it mean to say: the world? What is the meaning of the world? Who tricked me into this whole thing and leaves me standing here? Who am I? How did I get into the world? Why was I not asked about it, why was I not informed of the rules and regulations and just thrust into the ranks as if I had been bought from a peddling shanghaier of human beings? How did I get involved in the big enterprise called actuality? Why should I be involved? Isn’t it a matter of choice? If I am compelled to be involved, where is the manager — I have something to say about this. Is there no manager? To whom shall I make my complaint?”
Sounds like me every time I walk into a boutique and observe how much retail prices are rising. Just as Kierkegaard grappled with his own existence, we grapple with our collections. Why this watch? Why now? Why am I remortgaging my house for a bloody minute repeater? It’s not about telling time; it’s about telling our story. Each watch is a chapter, a moment captured using dials, wheels, pushers and springs. The next time you’re pondering over a purchase, channel your inner Kierkegaard. Ask the big questions. Just don’t expect the AD to have any answers.
Epictetus and the Stoic Collector
Now let’s talk about something that’ll make your hairspring quiver… waitlists! Epictetus, the OG Stoic, said:
“Working within our sphere of control, we are naturally free, independent, and strong. Beyond that sphere, we are weak, limited, and dependent.”
Lads and lasses, this is the Zen of watch collecting. You can control your taste, your budget, your willingness to schmooze with ADs. But that waitlist? That’s out of your hands. Embrace it. Make peace with it. And for the love of George fvcking Daniels, turn off Chrono24 alerts. Focus on what you can control: building relationships, honing your knowledge, and appreciating the pieces you already own. The rest? Let it go like that sh*tter you bought off Kickstarter and never wore at all4.
Iris Murdoch’s ‘Unselfing’: The Art of Appreciating Haute Horlogerie
Iris Murdoch, who probably never had to choose between a Lange 1 and a Vacheron Overseas, gave us this gem:
“I am looking out of my window in an anxious and resentful state of mind, oblivious of my surroundings, brooding perhaps on some damage done to my prestige. Then suddenly I observe a hovering kestrel. In a moment everything is altered.”
Replace ‘kestrel’ with ‘Resonance hands ticking in unison’ (or whatever you love watching), and you’ve got the watch collector’s equivalent of mindfulness. It’s easy to get caught up in the hype, the FOMO, the endless comparison. Sometimes, though, you need to lose yourself in your watch; the soothing pulse of a balance wheel, the smooth sweep of a seconds hand, the play of light on a perfectly polished case or iridescent dial or even the intermittent spin of your remontoir thingy. That stuff can be magical5.
Bertrand Russell on the Uncertainty of Horology
Bertrand Russell, who clearly never had to worry about watch authentication, said:
“The value of philosophy is, in fact, to be sought largely in its very uncertainty... As soon as we begin to philosophise, on the contrary, we find… that even the most everyday things lead to problems to which only very incomplete answers can be given…”
Sound familiar? It’s like trying to verify a Mk3 dial on a Red Submariner or authenticate the provenance of a “new old stock” Newman. The uncertainty is a large part of the thrill. Every scratched case back is a mystery, every faded bezel a story waiting to be uncovered. Embrace the questions, the debates, the endless forum threads. That’s where the value lies – not in the certainty of a perfect collection, but in the journey of discovery.
Nietzsche’s Eternal Recurrence: The Cyclical Nature of Watch Trends
Finally, let’s wind things up with a bit of Nietzsche:
“All these bold birds who fly out into the wide, widest open—it is true! At some point they will not be able to fly any farther and will squat down on some pylon or sparse crag—and very grateful for this miserable accommodation to boot! But who would want to conclude from this that there was no longer a vast and prodigious trajectory ahead of them, that they had flown as far and wide as one could fly!”
Watches, like fashion, are cyclical. What goes around, comes around – usually with an altered case size and a heftier price tag. Remember when everyone scoffed at small watches? Then big watches? And now they’re all whining for smaller watches again? The point is, don’t be afraid to fly against the prevailing winds. Today’s overlooked watches might be tomorrow’s grail watch. And even if it isn’t, who cares? You’re not collecting for them; you’re collecting for you.
A watch collection is more than the sum of its parts. It’s a reflection of your journey, your tastes, your triumphs, and yes, even your existential crises. So wind up your favourite piece, set the time, and remember – in a world of smartwatches and atomic clocks, we’re the magnificent stewards keeping the mechanical heart of timekeeping alive.
📌 Links of interest
🧐 As shared by @niccoloy on Instagram, this ad from a Canadian department store shows a Rolex Explorer with a white dial, suggesting this may not be as rare as Phillips would have you believe. Also, according to
in the comments on the post: “Important to understand that Rolex Canada was only minority owned by Rolex Geneva, so they made lots of stuff seen nowhere else.”♨ Rolex Patents a new type of shock absorber.
👰 Three-quarters of grooms would choose a Rolex over a wedding ring. Seems logical!
🎌 Phillips Announces TOKI (刻), a special thematic auction dedicated to Japanese watch collecting culture.
📉 Christie’s Auction Sales Down 22 Percent in First Half of 2024.
🎪 Paris Olympics Force Art Galleries to Close, Leaving Dealers in a Tough Spot.
💻 Inside the historic computer collection of Microsoft co-founder Paul G. Allen.
🗺 Mapped: A Short Overview of Places With Zero Corporate Taxes.
🐁 New drug helps fight typical signs of aging, extends lifespan by 25% in mice. Essentially, inflammation blocking is pivotal for longevity.
🚸 How to be a Norwegian parent: let your kids roam free, stay home alone, have fun – and fail.
💲 The Deep and Enduring History of Universal Basic Income.
⭐ How to raise the world’s IQ. Simple ways to make the next generation more intelligent.
🍻 How much alcohol is bad for you? TL;DR: “The only way to completely avoid related health problems is to stop drinking alcohol.”
🍷 We Asked: “How Do You Price Your Wine List?”
🚬 The viral Swype vape phone. What? Yes. A vape phone. 😂
🍉 The “Two-Finger” Rule Farmers Swear by to Pick the Best Watermelon.
🍗 The spectacular rise and surprising staying power of the George Foreman Grill.
⛸ Why melting ice sheets are making our days longer.
🦉 Night owls’ cognitive function ‘superior’ to early risers, study suggests.
🐘 African elephants address one another with individually specific name-like calls.
👩💻 Priscila, Queen of the Rideshare Mafia - She came to the US with a dream. Using platforms like Uber, Instacart, and DoorDash, she built a business empire up from nothing. There was just one problem. A long and amusing read about a girl with a dream, who became a criminal in the USA - could be a Netflix limited series!
End note
In case you missed it… here’s a divisive post from last week:
Honestly I nearly didn’t post this because of how snobbish it seems. On reflection, particularly after reading the comments and replying to them, I am glad I did. The comments are probably as insightful as the post itself, and I would urge you to revisit them if you haven’t already done so. Ok, home stretch…
In the so-called amphitheatre of life6, where our ambition pushes us forward, discipline is really the unsung hero; The steadfast guardian of our loftiest aspirations. It is the secret sauce, the invisible hand, as it were.
Consider, if you will, the words of Epictetus:
“No man is free who is not master of himself.”
This wisdom resonates through the ages, a kind of clarion call to those who seek true liberation through self-mastery. It’s a sentiment that would have found favour with Benjamin Franklin, who famously rose at 05:00 each day to plan his daily virtues and accomplishments.
Let’s not kid ourselves – discipline isn’t sexy. It’s the alarm clock that drags you up when your bed feels like the best place in the world. It’s the voice in your head that says, “Don’t you dare stop, you better finish the set” when your muscles and lungs scream for mercy. It’s the force that compels you to sit at your desk and write, even when the blank screen stares back with mocking indifference.
Sadly, in this era of instant gratification, where dopamine hits are dispensed with the casual swipe or tap of a finger, discipline has become a truly rare and precious commodity. It is the difference between those who merely dream, and those who do.
When Sir Ernest Shackleton’s ship, the Endurance, was crushed by Antarctic ice in 1915, it was Shackleton’s iron discipline that kept his crew alive through a gruelling 497-day ordeal. His unwavering commitment to their survival, despite seemingly insurmountable odds, is a shining example of disciplined leadership.
Discipline isn’t just about gritting your teeth and powering through. It’s also about love – the deepest, most profound love you can show yourself. It’s about making a promise to your future self and having the balls to keep it, day after day, even when the payoff seems as distant as an allocation from Rexhep Rexhepi.
In the words of Jim Rohn, “Discipline is the bridge between goals and accomplishment.” This is the invisible thread which connects your present self to the person you aspire to be. Every time you choose discomfort over ease, every time you opt for long-term gain over short-term pleasure, you’re casting a vote for the person you want to become.
So, the next time you find yourself wavering, remember this: the future you – the one with the corner office, the piece unique on your wrist, and the satisfied gleam in your eye – is counting on you. That future self exists in potentia, waiting to be born through the chrysalis of your daily habits and choices.
Discipline, my friends, is not just important – it’s everything. It is the silent weapon by which dreams are transmuted into reality, the secret handshake of the successful, the unspoken language of achievers. In a world awash with mediocrity, discipline is the differentiator, the X-factor that separates the also-rans from the champions.
Wind up your resolve, set your sights on the horizon, and embrace the beautiful struggle of self-mastery; Because in the end, the most valuable asset you’ll ever own is not a watch on your wrist; It is the time you have left, and how you choose to use it.
Until next time ✌
F
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Yuka - Food & Cosmetic Scanner on the App Store (apple.com)
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GLP-1 agonists are a class of medications that mainly help manage blood sugar (glucose) levels in people with Type 2 diabetes. Some GLP-1 agonists can also help treat obesity.
While playing at the 1987 US Championships, tennis star Chris Evert took a big swing with her racket. The force of the action caused her shimmering diamond bracelet to unfasten from her wrist thanks to a defective clasp. Evert asked the judge to pause the match so she could search for her bracelet. After reluctantly granting her request, the judge impatiently waited along with fans and her opponent while Evert searched for the jewelry piece. From that moment, the classic diamond jewelry piece became known as a “tennis bracelet.”
It costs over a million Francs!
Yes, I mean Furlan Marri.
Talk about first world problems. Gosh!
Great work as always. I have a slightly different take on Ben's Hodinkee post. My reading of it is that the business was on the verge of a cashflow crisis and had no realistic ability to raise yet more money from investors (who have already been burnt on several funding rounds), so it had to shut down its core sales operations. A blog that does not sell anything is hardly worth seven figures, let alone nine figures. The equity is likely to be worthless, and the company will be on the verge of default on its credit facilities (perhaps there has already been a default and a forbearance arrangement is in place). To be clear - a watch retailer is turning into a journalism business. That is an absolute car crash for investors. I actually like Ben and I think that he is treated too harshly by some people online, but what we are seeing is an orderly wind-down of a company in financial distress.
Your words on discipline are absolutely beautiful. I'm gonna print "That future self exists in potentia, waiting to be born through the chrysalis of your daily habits and choices." and frame it in front of my desk.